Tag: heat break

Name: 3DEA
Address: Keith Hay Court, Silverdale, Auckland, 0932
Rating: 4.7

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Bi-Metal CR10 All Metal Heat Break Titanium Copper
$19.90
Bi-Metal CR10 All-Metal Heatbreak Titanium Copper
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Bi-Metal CR10 Heat Break Titanium Copper
$14.90
Bi-Metal CR10 Heatbreak Titanium Copper
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Bi-Metal CR6 SE All Metal Heatbreak – Titanium Copper
$22.90
Bi-Metal CR6 SE All-Metal Heatbreak Titanium Copper
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Bi-Metal V6 All Metal Heat Break – Throat for High Temperature
$22.90
Bi-metal (titanium/copper) heat break for E3D V6 Hotends – To upgrade to a high temperature print head: up to 450-500℃
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Heat Break for Creality Spider
$13.90
Genuine replacement Heat Break for Spider HE by Creality
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Heat Break for Dragon V2
Price range: $39.90 through $45.90
Genuine replacement Heat Break by Phaetus
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Heat Break for Dragonfly
$45.90
Genuine replacement Heat Break by Phaetus
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Blair Hammond

5

Ive been buying most... Read More
Ive been buying most of my filament from 3DEA for years now. I can't think of a single time I've been let down. Wide selection that's very very rarely out of stock, and their "house Brand" is nicely priced and prints bloody good. Read Less
Sam Willis

5

Outstanding advice a... Read More
Outstanding advice and service. One conversation and a simple order with them, and we finally have our SunluS9 printer up and running again after weeks of troubleshooting. 10/10 Read Less
Brendan

5

13 March 2024 - Revi... Read More
13 March 2024 - Review for:PETG-CF – Carbon Fibre Enhanced PETG FilamentInteresting combination of materials. Has the stiffness of ASA but the toughness of PETG. Also like ASA, I found a tendency for the layers to separate if printed with the same temp as PETG. Raising the extruder temperature helped, but then I found blobs forming. A good balance seems to be 242degC with a touch of fan.I'm printing on a Garolite print bed and found I had to bring the bed temp down to 70degC, any hotter and the print is very hard to remove!Also, remember you'll need a steel nozzle, as apparently the CF will ream out your orifice quick smart. The filament is hygroscopic so needs to be dried before use.My suggestion - get PETG printing well, before moving onto this filament.My printing factors currently:Ender3 v2 with MicroSwiss DD Extruder 0.6mm hardened steel MicroSwiss Nozzle Retraction: 1.5mm Garolite Printbed Extruder Temp: 242degC Fan: 5% always on | Bridges: 40% Layer Height: .24mm Perim: 35mm/s Small Perim: 25 mm/s Ext PErim: 20 mm/sREVIEW FOR ASA Blue-GreyPrinted the three parts in the photo attached, individually on an Ender 3 v2 without an enclosure, but with a printed draft shield.Nozzle at 250 degC first layer, then 246 degC for the following layers Bed at 102 degC first layer, then 98 degC for the following layersNote: I have a Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tube. Better temp durability than E3v2 stock Bowden tube.My bed plate is Garolite wet sanded with 1200 grit wet n dry and cleaned between prints with Isopropyl and paper towel.You don't want to be in the same room as the printer when printing ASA - smells bad. Also, once the first layer has finished, keep the door closed to avoid drafts.Print rough smoothed using 240 grit sandpaper, then 1200 wet n dry - wet sanded. ASA sands easily and down to a great finish.Next step is try printing in an enclosure and to try Acetone smoothing :)NOTE: The supplied filament reel's centre-hole is too small for my Ender 3 v2 reel holder. I use a dryer so all good, would be frustrating if you wanted to use a stock holder. EDIT: Must have had my eyes closed - The spool holes have filler plates! Removing these plates and my conundrum was solved :) Read Less

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Tag: heat break

Bi-Metal CR10 All Metal Heat Break Titanium Copper

Bi-Metal CR10 Heat Break Titanium Copper

Bi-Metal CR6 SE All Metal Heatbreak – Titanium Copper

Bi-Metal V6 All Metal Heat Break – Throat for High Temperature

Heat Break for Creality Spider

Heat Break for Dragon V2

Heat Break for Dragonfly

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