Category: Heat Breaks

Name: 3DEA
Address: Keith Hay Court, Silverdale, Auckland, 0932
Rating: 4.6

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Bi-Metal CR10 All Metal Heat Break Titanium Copper
$19.90
Bi-Metal CR10 All-Metal Heatbreak Titanium Copper
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Bi-Metal CR10 Heat Break Titanium Copper
$14.90
Bi-Metal CR10 Heatbreak Titanium Copper
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Bi-Metal CR6 SE All Metal Heatbreak – Titanium Copper
$22.90
Bi-Metal CR6 SE All-Metal Heatbreak Titanium Copper
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Bi-Metal V6 All Metal Heat Break – Throat for High Temperature
$22.90
Bi-metal (titanium/copper) heat break for E3D V6 Hotends – To upgrade to a high temperature print head: up to 450-500℃
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Heat Break for Creality Spider
$13.90
Genuine replacement Heat Break for Spider HE by Creality
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Heat Break for Dragon V2
$39.90 – $45.90
Genuine replacement Heat Break by Phaetus
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Heat Break for Dragonfly
$45.90
Genuine replacement Heat Break by Phaetus
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Brendan

5

13 March 2024 - Revi... Read More
13 March 2024 - Review for:PETG-CF – Carbon Fibre Enhanced PETG FilamentInteresting combination of materials. Has the stiffness of ASA but the toughness of PETG. Also like ASA, I found a tendency for the layers to separate if printed with the same temp as PETG. Raising the extruder temperature helped, but then I found blobs forming. A good balance seems to be 242degC with a touch of fan.I'm printing on a Garolite print bed and found I had to bring the bed temp down to 70degC, any hotter and the print is very hard to remove!Also, remember you'll need a steel nozzle, as apparently the CF will ream out your orifice quick smart. The filament is hygroscopic so needs to be dried before use.My suggestion - get PETG printing well, before moving onto this filament.My printing factors currently:Ender3 v2 with MicroSwiss DD Extruder 0.6mm hardened steel MicroSwiss Nozzle Retraction: 1.5mm Garolite Printbed Extruder Temp: 242degC Fan: 5% always on | Bridges: 40% Layer Height: .24mm Perim: 35mm/s Small Perim: 25 mm/s Ext PErim: 20 mm/sREVIEW FOR ASA Blue-GreyPrinted the three parts in the photo attached, individually on an Ender 3 v2 without an enclosure, but with a printed draft shield.Nozzle at 250 degC first layer, then 246 degC for the following layers Bed at 102 degC first layer, then 98 degC for the following layersNote: I have a Capricorn PTFE Bowden Tube. Better temp durability than E3v2 stock Bowden tube.My bed plate is Garolite wet sanded with 1200 grit wet n dry and cleaned between prints with Isopropyl and paper towel.You don't want to be in the same room as the printer when printing ASA - smells bad. Also, once the first layer has finished, keep the door closed to avoid drafts.Print rough smoothed using 240 grit sandpaper, then 1200 wet n dry - wet sanded. ASA sands easily and down to a great finish.Next step is try printing in an enclosure and to try Acetone smoothing :)NOTE: The supplied filament reel's centre-hole is too small for my Ender 3 v2 reel holder. I use a dryer so all good, would be frustrating if you wanted to use a stock holder. EDIT: Must have had my eyes closed - The spool holes have filler plates! Removing these plates and my conundrum was solved :) Read Less
GLEN20

5

3dea is a real pleas... Read More
3dea is a real pleasure to deal with. Not only do they stock a great range of filament which you can get from other suppliers in NZ. They have a massive range of own-brand filament which is often unique to NZ and is of the highest quality. All in all, 3dea are highly recommended. Read Less
Greedo Twerp

5

I was looking for a ... Read More
I was looking for a colour similar to the primer red seen on German WW2 heavy vehicles. Wanted to print a 1/4 scale model of a Tiger tank 88mm muzzle brake. Ordered the 3DEA "Brick Red" PLA which is a very good match. Never used prior and pleased to report printed faultlessly once I knocked the temp down to 200 degrees on my Kingroon KP3S. Printed at 0.10mm layer height, no stringing issues at all. Very happy customer. Already planning the next order, highly recommended. Read Less